Travel confab and Victoria musings
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On the morning of Saturday, May 30th, we made our way to the Hotel Triton lobby to speak with our trusty advisers, the hotel’s front desk hosts. We planned to go down to the infamous Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market for breakfast before embarking on our journey to the Golden Gate Bridge. With their directions, we made our way south a few blocks to Market Street and caught the F-line streetcar for a mere $1.50 to the Ferry Building.
The Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market boasts an impressive array of local Californian produce, wines, artisan cheeses, and breads, just to name a few of the hundreds of services and products available. On-going since 1993, it is organized by the Centre for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture in order to promote environmentally sound agricultural practices, production and distribution methods.
The market is open until 2:00pm on Tuesdays and Saturdays, as well as Thursdays in the summer months. Saturday’s selection of vendors is much more vast, with tents spilling past the Embarcadero main-drag and onto the stretch of park out front at the edge of the downtown core, as well as along the water-front pier behind the Ferry Building. We first languidly perused the park grounds and picked up a few souvenirs. The vendors vary from painters to potters, unique jewelry and organic clothing designers, and there seemingly is something for everyone. The smell of the multifarious food tents located in and around the Ferry Building itself, though, were drawing us in, so we headed indoors for breakfast.
Studies have shown that too many options strain the brain, turning a simple choice into a tough call. As was the case with our palates that morning, and we opted for fresh-shucked oysters to tide us over, before departing the market and catching a streetcar towards Fisherman’s Wharf.
Oysters do not exactly suffice as a filling, well-balanced breakfast. So upon hopping off the streetcar we stumbled inside Jack’s Cannery Bar, located in Del Monte Square- a historic factory built in 1907 to house the Del Monte fruit canning company- for some beers and appetizers. Finally, with food in our stomachs, we located a bike rental shop a few blocks down.
At Blazzing Saddles for approx. $30/person we rented our rides and biked towards the water-front. We passed a few picturesque piers and public parks, weaving through clusters of pedestrians as we rode along the well-marked and maintained path to Golden Gate National Park.
Golden Gate Bridge
Upon reaching the park near the base of the bridge around Fort Mason, the sense of community outweighs the feeling of the spot being namely a well-known tourist draw. Sure, we the tourists pass on through on our way to the main event, but there in Crissy Field, with big red looming over-head, were picnicking families, dogs roaming unleashed, even a few surfers skimming the small waves, creating a strong semblance of kinship. But of course, we were merely witness to these common neighbourly gatherings, and were on our way up the steep, windy turn-up ramp to the edge of the Bridge.
Biking the Golden Gate Bridge is a one-of-a-kind and enthralling experience, that I must recommend to any visitor of San Francisco. The 2.7 Km (1.7 Miles) path stretched along the Western side of the bridge is dedicated strictly to the plethora of cyclists, while the Eastern path caters particularly to pedestrians, so there is little chance of collision. The entire round-trip tour takes under a couple of hours, but provides you with the exhilarating experience of traveling 220-meters directly above the bay, while taking-in the expansive views of San Francisco.
After ditching our bikes we walked back east down the palm-tree-lined promenade, passed the Ferry Building where our morning had begun, towards the home of the San Francisco Giants.
AT&T Park is a 41,000 seat open-air venue over-looking the San Francisco Bay. The ballpark itself is worth checking-out, even if you’re not partaking in a Major League Baseball game. 5 life-like statues of former baseball greats line the outside, while behind the field next to the ample brightly-lit scoreboards are an oversize baseball mitt and an 80-foot Coca-Cola bottle.
The Giants were playing the St. Louis Cardinals that night, and pitcher Barry Zito kept up with the league’s fan-favourites very well until the final innings. They ended up losing the game 6-2, but the experience of my first baseball game- including prime 10th-row seating with personal waiters, a multitude of over-priced American beers and hotdogs, and a genuine 7th-Inning Stretch while singing “Take Me Out to the Ball Game” was one not to be forgotten.
The remaining few days in San Francisco were spent flying solo, while Dylan attended his purpose for the trip- the Atlassian Summit in the stunning 18th-century Palace Hotel.
"Painted Ladies" of Alamo Square Park
My first lone journey brought me to the hip Haight-Ashbury and Hayes Valley areas as I scoped out Alamo Square Park, famous for it’s oft-seen postcard shot of the “Painted Ladies”, and in the opening credits of 90’s hit TV show “Full House.” I hiked Buena Vista Park briefly, for views of the bridge and the San Francisco Bay below, before catching the metro back towards town. While passing through Union Square on my way to the hotel to call it a night, I partook in my only stint as a shopper that week, since the magnitude of the Macy’s Department Store suckered me in. Rarely do I embark on a shopping expedition without a purpose, but I can’t say I didn’t enjoy myself!
Over Monday, June 1st and Tuesday, June 2nd- my last couple of days in the city- I managed to kill an afternoons worth of time in the Yerba Buena Gardens and across the street, inside the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.
The SF Museum of Modern Art has housed 20-century artwork since it’s opening in 1935, and continued through to the move to it’s current location in 1995. I chose to start on the 5th Floor, and make my way back down, with the fabulous newly-opened Rooftop Garden. From there I started indoors with the current contemporary sculpture and painting collection entitled “Between Art and Life,” then down the remaining floors through the various photography and artwork exhibits, including journal projects, Robert Frank’s “the Americans” and Henri Matisse’s paintings and sculptures.
My last few hours in the city consisted of failing to convince a couple of security guards to allow me access to the top floor of the TransAmerica Pyramid. But at least the views from below, outside in the adjacent redwood park were lovely! I then met Dylan for lunch at the fabulous California Pizza Kitchen before catching the metro back to the airport.
Sitting in the airport, I was sad to leave San Francisco behind after my week-long journey. I think when I do go back next, having now enjoyed a huge handful of it’s many sights, activities and tours for the first time, I will spend a quick weekend get-a-way there. It is only a mere 2hr and few minute direct flight from Vancouver Island, and the city’s laid-back and charming atmosphere cater to all needs.
Whether you are looking for a shopping retreat (see the vintage stores in Haight-Ashbury or couture shops surrounding Union Square), in search of family-friendly activities (see Pier 39’s Aquarium, 3D Rides or arcades), or you’re a history buff (see Alcatraz or the world famous cable cars and streetcars) or an avid fan of the outdoors (did I mentioned how great biking the bridge was? Maybe try kayaking, mountain biking and see Napa Valley for a winery tour), San Francisco has something for everyone. The city has an unmatched energy that needs to be felt first-hand to be believed, and I am most happy I have visited it and to have taken these unforgettable experiences back home with me to Victoria.
They say that planning a trip is the most enjoyable part of a vacation. I decidedly found that to be true with the European get-a-way last September. But what I really enjoyed about this trip to San Francisco was the fact that the very few events we did schedule were in the evening hours. This allowed us time to wander around at our leisure and discover the sights at a comfortable pace.
On the morning of Friday, May 29th we headed out of the Hotel Triton and crossed the gates of Chinatown heading north. Weaving through the narrow sidewalks brimming with fresh seafood and incoming produce, we admired the brightly coloured awnings and hanging lanterns above, amidst the sea of local shoppers and tourists alike. We managed to locate a neat little breakfast nook in the North Beach area, just past Chinatown. There at Curly’s, I downed my oatmeal-bagel-coffee combo which fueled me for the next few hours.
Christopher Columbus & Coit Tower
The first Frommer’s “San Francisco Day by Day” sight we passed was Washington Square Park and Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. We glided through the grassy field peppered with people performing Tai Chi and the resting homeless. From there we made our way (very, very slowly might I add) up the steep slope of Telegraph Hill. It was there that I caught my first glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge.
The infamous icon loomed in the background over the San Francisco Bay. Stretching high over a sea of slight fog, the Golden Gate Bridge and it’s red beams were postcard perfect. From that height the city’s ever-changing weather patterns were apparent. From the short time atop Telegraph Hill which we spent admiring the interior painted murals from 1934 of Coit Tower, until our decent, the fog had lifted and returned many times over.
We then headed east to Leavenworth at Lombard Street and climbed up the “Crookedest Street in the World” and watched as tourists rode by in cable cars. Next, I picked up treats from the Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop and we went back south up steep Nob Hill to take a gander at the Grace Cathedral. Lunch was accompanied by a pitcher of beer at Uncle Vito’s before we caught the F-Line streetcar to the waterfront.
Pier 39 is tourist mecca, but housed the most concentrated area of restaurants and inflated-priced shops. We ambled about aimlessly a bit- inside the hat merchants, sports store, and checked out the coolest old music and movie memorabilia collection around- before back-tracking to Pier 33 to catch the Alcatraz cruise.
The ferry ride over was rocky with brisk winds slightly impeding on the enjoyment of the views of San Francisco behind us. Upon docking we were met by an animated guide and while passing through the Guardhouse, former Officer’s barracks, past the Post Exchange and the water tower, he briefed us on the lesser-known histories of the island.
The grounds are kept very well maintained and groomed by National Park Service staff and volunteers, and as walking past the many buildings- their variable years of construction make you aware of the Rock’s rich history. Dating as far back as it’s discovery in 1775 by Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala, to it’s purchase by the US from the Mexican Government in 1846. The island was initially used as a fort, twice as a prison- both military and federal- and upon it’s closing in 1963 due to lack of funding, it was occupied for a brief 19-month period by Native Americans. Soon after Alcatraz was officially considered a national landmark owned and operated by the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, public tours began in 1973.
The Rock
Upon entering you are met by a large photograph boasting the phrase “Break the rules and you go to prison, break the prison rules and you go to Alcatraz.” You then retrieve the head-set before heading into the Cellhouse to commence the tour.
The Alcatraz audio tour is optional, but you would be doing yourself a grave disservice to opt-out of this spectacularly well-rehearsed 45-minute tour, which is included with the admission price. The tour is narrated by four former past guards and inmates as they weave you through the various cell blocks, stopping at key points along the way to share their haunting tales of rioting, revenge and murder.
Key points include the cells of the Anglin Brothers who- in June of 1962 along with Frank Morris and assistance from other inmates- became the only prisoners in the history of Alcatraz who managed to escape. Using spoons to dig through the plaster around the vents, the three men then climbed the pipping in the maintenance area behind their cells to the roof, and descended to the water’s edge to reportedly escape via raft, their bodies never to be found.
Other notable spots on the tour were the D-Block cells, and experiencing the distinct temperature change between solitary confinement compared to the rest of the Cellhouse. You are then brought through the visitation and administration areas, step outdoors for views of the city and the burned-down Warden’s house, before heading back to the Cafeteria to end the audio-tour with haunting riot sounds and tales of kitchen knives missing- only to turn up in the backs of inmates.
Once the tour is complete, there are options to head outdoors for a self-guided stroll of the land, check-out some of the exhibits and videos, and listen to one of the many other interpretive programs. We decided to listen in on the short talk on “How to Rob a Bank,” before meeting our original guide for the spooky tales of Famous Inmates of Alcatraz while being walked back down the Rock and onto the ferry.
I would highly recommend the Night Tour of Alcatraz to any visitor of San Francisco. Visitors are given the opportunity to experience more of the specialty programs, wandering at their leisure outside, lesser crowds, and include some stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge at sunset and the city sky-line lit up spectacularly as you catch the ferry ride back to land.
On Thursday, May 28th I awoke a little later than expected due to a slight headache from a night out with my friends and coworkers. What was expected to be a casual afternoon on the Canoe Club patio to celebrate Matt & Jonathan’s Birthdays, Lea’s return, and Linda’s departure to her homeland of Belgium, soon turned into many hours at various patios and concluded with Starfleet-uniform-clad company at Big Bad John’s. That guy was certainly interesting…
Within half an hour of waking up still reeling, I threw together two small carry-on bags and hopped on the bus out to the Vancouver Island Tech Park. I met Dylan at his office where we caught a cab to Victoria International airport… and off we were to San Francisco, California, USA.
Dylan had been invited to the first annual Atlassian Summit from Sunday evening through to Tuesday, and with direct flights lasting a mere 2 hrs 14 mins, I decided to play tag-along with my favourite travel partner. We made arrangements to go the Thursday before his conference began in order to scope as many sights as we could of the big city on the bay for our 6-day vacation down south.
Upon first arrival we caught the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) from San Francisco International airport to downtown on Montgomery Street, then hiked 4 blocks to our home for the week, the Hotel Triton, located directly across from the gates of Chinatown. We then wandered to SOMA (South of Market Area) to catch a Canadian punk rock band from my hometown of Winnipeg, MB- Propagandhi. The venue was wicked, and in it’s day Slim’s Bar has hosted some awesome shows, including NOFX’s 25th Anniversary gig this past February. The two opening bands mellowed out the crowd, which is the opposite of what should have happened, before Propagandhi hit the stage. By the time they came on the place was packed tight and scorching hot. They played for over 90 mins. and pulled off a remarkable set-list comprised of mainly their latest release- Supporting Caste- as well as a number of memorable oldies from Potemkin City Limits and Today’s Empires, Tomorrow’s Ashes.
Propagandhi was the perfect cap to our first night in San Francisco, next time they tour up north in the BC vicinity I will undoubtedly try and attend. After the show we grabbed a quick cab back to the Hotel Triton to crash, in order to see what the hilly city had to offer us the next day.
It’s been a while. People get busy, it happens.
These past couple of weeks I have been watching the number of out-of-towners multiple like rabbits wandering the grounds of UVic. It’s not yet even June and already we have seen a huge increase in tourists ambling about. Living on a busy route in James Bay they wander past regularly in one long consistent stream. Looking relaxed, but quite bored, craning their necks whilst being dragged in a carriage by horses trotting slower than they could walk, or strolling in a Kabuki Kab while getting the tour from, well, what I hope are locals but fear to be foreign students who know too little about our city. Either way seemingly all of their drivers are extremely neighbourly, passengers are out in the open taking in the beauty of each unique area along the way and it’s a completely green means of transportation. As opposed to the cramped, closed-off massive old charter buses, which, thankfully, are prohibited down my street. In any case, there have been a huge influx in all of the above due to the cruise ships and an upcoming US long-weekend. Nice to see Victoria has yet to really feel the crunch of this economy.
I have much to do in the next little while to prepare for the busy summer that lies ahead. But first- this time next week I will be taking a quick 2-hour and some flight down to San Franciso for a short get-a-way. Mom picked me up Frommer’s “San Francisco- Day by Day” (purse-sized, with multiple maps and awesome tips), the Alcatraz night tour is booked, and just earlier today Dylan discovered/purchased tickets to see Propagandhi @ Slim’s the night we arrive. Should be a great trip!
Now off to finally check-out Star Trek…
I’m experimenting with the title once again. I realize that, while the last title may have been an homage to one of my favourite beers and the city in which I live combined, I had to drop the first half. Linda, being a Belgian woman with blonde hair, had the moniker bestowed upon her recently at work, where we have all really taken a liking to Phillips beer- a local brewery here in town with a wide range of beers for any pairing. By any, I mean around a dozen or so varying shades of pale to dark ales, on the malty side to more hopsy. Along with the Surly Blonde- the office favourite- I personally am a big fan of Black Toque and Blue Buck (formerly, ‘Blue Truck’). Plus the seasonal Dirty Squirrel is a nice addition, when you can find it in stores for that very limited time.
This past November the co-workers and I went on an excursion up-island to Pacific Shores Resort & Spa, located near the Parksville area of east Vancouver Island. That evening the resorts on-site restaurant, the Landing West Coast Grill, hosted a Brewmaster’s dinner. A 7-course meal, each paired, as well as cooked with, a different Phillip’s beer. From the hay clams steamed in IPA, to the Surly Blonde beer bread and finally the Chocolate Porter caramel sauce on the dessert, my senses were pretty elated from start to finish.
The success of the evening was due to the collective orchestration and efforts by the restaurant’s Dir. of Food and Beverages, Atilla Cimsit, the Landing’s Ex. Chef, Andrew Howarth. Also in attendance as guest of honour was the founder of Phillip’s Brewery, Matt Phillips, and a couple of his team to educate us on the history, and share tales of the beer naming processes. (Apparently the Dirty Squirrel and Surly Blonde ales were originally reversed- Surly Squirrel and Dirty Blonde.) Their award winning beers were matched faultlessly with the Landing’s unmarred creations utilizing fresh, local ingredients. It was an educational and highly enjoyable evening, and I believe I can now safely call myself a Phillip’s beer advocate.
