San Francisco: Day 2

They say that planning a trip is the most enjoyable part of a vacation.  I decidedly found that to be true with the European get-a-way last September.  But what I really enjoyed about this trip to San Francisco was the fact that the very few events we did schedule were in the evening hours.  This allowed us time to wander around at our leisure and discover the sights at a comfortable pace.

On the morning of Friday, May 29th we headed out of the Hotel Triton and crossed the gates of Chinatown heading north.  Weaving through the narrow sidewalks brimming with fresh seafood and incoming produce, we admired the brightly coloured awnings and hanging lanterns above, amidst the sea of local shoppers and tourists alike.  We managed to locate a neat little breakfast nook in the North Beach area, just past Chinatown.  There at Curly’s, I downed my oatmeal-bagel-coffee combo which fueled me for the next few hours.

Christopher Columbus & Coit Tower

The first Frommer’s “San Francisco Day by Day” sight we passed was Washington Square Park and Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral.  We glided through the grassy field peppered with people performing Tai Chi and the resting homeless.  From there we made our way (very, very slowly might I add) up the steep slope of Telegraph Hill.  It was there that I caught my first glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge.

The infamous icon loomed in the background over the San Francisco Bay.  Stretching high over a sea of slight fog, the Golden Gate Bridge and it’s red beams were postcard perfect.  From that height the city’s ever-changing weather patterns were apparent.  From the short time atop Telegraph Hill which we spent admiring the interior painted murals from 1934 of Coit Tower, until our decent, the fog had lifted and returned many times over.

We then headed east to Leavenworth at Lombard Street and climbed up the “Crookedest Street in the World” and watched as tourists rode by in cable cars.  Next, I picked up treats from the Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop and we went back south up steep Nob Hill to take a gander at the Grace Cathedral.  Lunch was accompanied by a pitcher of beer at Uncle Vito’s before we caught the F-Line streetcar to the waterfront.

Pier 39 is tourist mecca, but housed the most concentrated area of restaurants and inflated-priced shops.  We ambled about aimlessly a bit- inside the hat merchants, sports store, and checked out the coolest old music and movie memorabilia collection around- before back-tracking to Pier 33 to catch the Alcatraz cruise.

Alcatraz Island

The ferry ride over was rocky with brisk winds slightly impeding on the enjoyment of the views of San Francisco behind us. Upon docking we were met by an animated guide and while passing through the Guardhouse, former Officer’s barracks, past the Post Exchange and the water tower, he briefed us on the lesser-known histories of the island.

The grounds are kept very well maintained and groomed by National Park Service staff and volunteers, and as walking past the many buildings- their variable years of construction make you aware of the Rock’s rich history. Dating as far back as it’s discovery in 1775 by Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala, to it’s purchase by the US from the Mexican Government in 1846. The island was initially used as a fort, twice as a prison- both military and federal- and upon it’s closing in 1963 due to lack of funding, it was occupied for a brief 19-month period by Native Americans.  Soon after Alcatraz was officially considered a national landmark owned and operated by the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, public tours began in 1973.

The Rock

Upon entering you are met by a large photograph boasting the phrase “Break the rules and you go to prison, break the prison rules and you go to Alcatraz.” You then retrieve the head-set before heading into the Cellhouse to commence the tour.

The Alcatraz audio tour is optional, but you would be doing yourself a grave disservice to opt-out of this spectacularly well-rehearsed 45-minute tour, which is included with the admission price.  The tour is narrated by four former past guards and inmates as they weave you through the various cell blocks, stopping at key points along the way to share their haunting tales of rioting, revenge and murder.

Key points include the cells of the Anglin Brothers who- in June of 1962 along with Frank Morris and assistance from other inmates- became the only prisoners in the history of Alcatraz who managed to escape.  Using spoons to dig through the plaster around the vents, the three men then climbed the pipping in the maintenance area behind their cells to the roof, and descended to the water’s edge to reportedly escape via raft, their bodies never to be found.

Other notable spots on the tour were the D-Block cells, and experiencing the distinct temperature change between solitary confinement compared to the rest of the Cellhouse.  You are then brought through the visitation and administration areas, step outdoors for views of the city and the burned-down Warden’s house, before heading back to the Cafeteria to end the audio-tour with haunting riot sounds and tales of kitchen knives missing- only to turn up in the backs of inmates.

Once the tour is complete, there are options to head outdoors for a self-guided stroll of the land, check-out some of the exhibits and videos, and listen to one of the many other interpretive programs.  We decided to listen in on the short talk on “How to Rob a Bank,” before meeting our original guide for the spooky tales of Famous Inmates of Alcatraz while being walked back down the Rock and onto the ferry.

I would highly recommend the Night Tour of Alcatraz to any visitor of San Francisco.  Visitors are given the opportunity to experience more of the specialty programs, wandering at their leisure outside, lesser crowds, and include some stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge at sunset and the city sky-line lit up spectacularly as you catch the ferry ride back to land.

A few more of my Alcatraz Photos.